Having seen more of Amsterdam, I can happily say that it must be one of the most habitable cities in the world. You can walk everywhere, though there are bikes and trams if you don't want to, the streets are clean, the people friendly, and everything is done efficiently and with the environment in mind. I love having water nearby at all times. The Amsterdam canals keep the city feeling fresh, as the waterways are always changing, and I like seeing homes with no car, but a row boat moored out the back door.
Yesterday I emerged from my hostel to a much quieter street than Sunday had offered, allowing me more time to take photographs and explore without as much fear of being run down by a bicycle. I took my time heading to the Museums Quarter, detouring by the Dam square. The square was built up around and on the first dam across the Amstel river (hence the name of the city) in the late-13th century. It's neat to spend some time people watching in the heart of the city, and this was no exception. Against the backdrop of impressive buildings such as the Royal Palace, an imposing Gothic church and Madame Tussaud's wax museum (which I find creepy and did not choose to visit), locals whiz by on bikes while tourists feed the pigeons. On a side note, to everyone ever thinking about touching a pigeon, don't.
I eventually made it through the winding streets (still had to triple check my directions and turned myself around more than once) and arrived in the Museums Quarter at the Van Gogh Museum. It was, in a word, incredible. To see the work of a master from his beginning stages through to the end of his life was a privilege, and the displays were excellent. There was works by his contemporaries to provide some historical artistic reference, and works by those he influenced, to show how van Gogh advanced and changed the way people think about art and colour. The museum did a good job of laying out biographical information along with his paintings, and I was interested to learn that he was not a talented artist to begin with... he studied art theory and practiced a lot before he produced anything he was happy with (and that it is worth the public's time to see). Though a little pricey (15 euro) I really enjoyed the visit and would recommend it. Pictures are not allowed inside the museum, and guards are ever watchful to make sure that those who attempt it delete the photos and accept a reprimand.
After leaving the museum, I sampled some of the local food, including delicious waffles that I may have to return to Amsterdam for. After recovering my lust for museums, I walked along a quiet side canal to the Anne Frank House, which was surprisingly quiet. Having seen 2-hour queues the day before, I count myself lucky, and advise anyone hoping to visit to aim for a week day, or to book tickets online in advance (9 euro). The museum is housed in the building where Anne Frank, her family, and their family friends hid from 1942-1944 from the Nazis during Hollands occupation. It was intense to see the tiny annex behind what had been Otto Frank's office space converted into a residence for 8 people. Thinking about the cause for their desperation is always a sobering experience, especially having being to Auschwitz 2 years ago with Kelly and having seen where Anne and her sister died. The museum information is well presented, interactive, and creates a space in which to remember reading Anne's story. For me, having read her diary and seen the play based on her writing, being in the secret annex made the story come alive. The museum is now unfurnished to represent the loss of life during the Shoah, but it is easy (though upsetting) to imagine it crammed with people and belongings. The final exhibit in the museum is related to human rights, and the ethical dilemma of rights which contradict each other. It presented scenarios, for example, a music group who rap hatefully about homosexuals (including lyrics suggesting they be killed), who have been forced to cancel concerts. They call on their freedom of speech, saying it is their right to say whatever they want. The museum then poses a yes or no question to the museum patrons, who answer electronically. It was interesting to see the results based on the ways in which people think about ethics and rights, as collected data was shown for my visit as well as throughout the duration of the exhibit. I appreciated seeing the museum taking the initiative to extend people's thoughts beyond the atrocities committed against Anne Frank and the many other Jewish people she has come to represent to current issues facing oppressed populations today.
I returned to the hostel to hang out with some of the people staying there; a group of exchange students from Brazil who are studying in the UK, and some British girls who were all really fun to talk and party with. We sought out dinner and drinks together, giving a nice send off to Amsterdam!
Today was a rough day of travel, lots of time lugging a giant suitcase through unfamiliar cities with too many layers of clothing on (my suitcase was overweight and stretched to its limit). But at last I have arrived at my new home in Istanbul. I found my roommate, Basak, without too much trouble despite not having a phone, and she and our other roommate Nihan were incredibly friendly in getting me set up on the couch until the room I will be renting from them is unoccupied. Basak and Nihan are both Turkish girls and students, and we live in a region just north of Taksim square on the metro, which is convenient for getting around, especially to and from school. I'm really excited to check out the city tomorrow... I caught a fleeting glimpse of the Blue Mosque on the bus into town from the airport, and it was absolutely tantalizing. I have 1 week before school orientation, and I mean to make the most of it!
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