Wednesday 23 May 2012

Castles, Museums and Sore Feet

Today was our last day in Krakow.  It's a truly lovely city, and we've really enjoyed being here in the glorious sunny weather.  It's been very easy to walk everywhere, not only due to the flat cobblestone streets, but also because it is home to a veritable smorgasbord of interesting sights, sounds, and smells, which distract you until you arrive at your destination.

The Cahedral at Wawel Hill, showing a mix of architectural styles.
We started the day at Wawel Hill, which is one of the most iconic sights in Poland.  This is where the Royal Family lived and held court, and it is also where the Nazis set up their base in Krakow.  The grounds and gold-covered, ornate cathedral are free and lovely to wander, though very crowded.  We paid extra for entry to the elaborate State Rooms, home to the Royal family's impressive collection of tapestries and pieces of art.  To our delight, a very famous painting, Da Vinci's Lady With An Ermine, was on loan to the castle, and we were able to learn about the painting's history, as well as the woman depicted in it.  At the end of the exhibit, Kelly and I were able to closely admire the amazing work, appreciating
the invisible brush strokes, incredible detail, and realism that Da Vinci was able to create.  After exploring the castle and grounds, we decided to leave in an unusual fashion: through the infamous Dragon's Den.  Rumor has it that in days of yore, a prince fed a sheep explosive material and left it just outside Wawel Hill, where a dragon, who had been plaguing the city and eating its princesses, lived.  The dragon ate the sheep, and in the fires of the dragon's belly, the sheep exploded, killing the dragon, ridding Krakow of its scourge, and freeing the beautiful princess, who married the Prince and lived happily ever after.  These days, the Den is a huge cave that leads from the castle to the river bank.  There we rested, hiding from the promise of sunburn in the shade, eating more of the delicious, cheap bread that is sold everywhere.

The fearsome dragon!
Feeling re-energized, we began the long trek to Oskar Schindler's enamel factory, which has been converted into a museum about life in Poland during the Nazi occupation.  It was a wonderful surprise, well organized, very detailed and informative, and interactive.  We spent several hours there learning more about the hardship of the Polish people beyond its Jewish inhabitants, although life in the Ghetto and the story of Schindler's list were also delved into.


Now exhausted after hours of walking and standing, we headed back towards Rynek Glowny, the main square, and entered St. Mary's Cathedral, which dominates the North Eastern corner of the Square.  It is an awe-inspiring example of Gothic architecture, and everything inside is covered in gold.  Contrary to Wawel Cathedral, which sees less traffic from average Poles, St. Mary's was full of people dropping reverently to their knees on the cold marble.  Returning to the bright square, Kel and I meandered through the numerous artisan's stands, before finding a restaurant in which to enjoy a last meal of delectable pierogis.

Rynek Glowny, with St. Mary's Cathedral in the background.
It has been wonderful visiting this city.  From my understanding, it is less touristy and busy than other capitols of culture in Eastern Europe.  We haven't had to cue for anything, and the cost of living and sightseeing here is very low.  The people have been helpful and friendly, and the language, though very difficult to speak, is beautiful to listen to.  Tomorrow we'll be leaving first thing in the morning on our long trek to Prague, and though I'm very excited to visit the reputably beautiful city, I'm sad to be leaving Krakow behind just as we're beginning to feel comfortable finding our way around the winding streets and intricate language.  But so it goes, see you all in Prague!



2 comments:

  1. And they're off! Don't you wish you could just pause time and explore to your heart's content?

    I love local mythology. There's so much more to it in understanding how a region of people viewed the world in years past. I hope you've got pictures to spare of the Den.

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  2. Nice descriptive writing D2 - thanks for helping us imagine some of the sights you are experiencing ! Off to Prague tomorrow - I guess this means you won't be here for your usual Thursday night dinner and overnight visit ? ;) Have fun ! XOX

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