The Battleground of Demigods and Heroes: Troy and Gallipoli Part Two

We had a quiet night in Eceabat after viewing the battlefields of Gallipoli. Many cups of delicious cay (Turkish tea) were consumed, and we discussed solutions to the Israel/Palestine conflict and the differences between the United States and Canada. Needless to say, I loved it.

The next morning, a few of the group headed out early to explore the town of Canakkale, on the opposite side of the narrows that open onto the Marmara Sea. This was a strategic point of defence for the Ottomans during WWI, and it is now one of the biggest cities on the northern Aegean coast. The ferry ride across from Eceabat was quite fun, we accidentally ignored the "crew only" signs and rode on the top deck where we were granted a view of both of the large fortresses protecting the Narrows. Our first stop in Canakkale was the military museum, which had an impressive yard full of WWI armaments: canons, mines, a submarine periscope, a German U-boat, and tanks. Predictably, there were several statues of Ataturk, my favourite of which involves him looking down benevolently with the dates 1881-infinity inscribed below. Unfortunately the fortress was closed for reconstruction, so we ventured through the town to the archaeology museum. It had many finds from Troy and other surrounding ruins including marble tombs, pottery, statues of Gods and Goddesses, and innumerable stone columns. Although very little of the signage was in English, it was really neat to see some of the archaeological remains from the area. We headed back to our hostel to rejoin our group, and after a delicious lunch provided by the hotel, we departed with our guide for Troy.

We had been warned that, unlike some other archaeological sites in the country, there isn't much to 'see' in Troy, because of extensive pillaging by treasure hunters, tourists and various museums, both Turkish and other (many of the finest finds from Troy are showcased in Britain and Germany). When we first arrived at the dig site, I was somewhat alarmed. Bus loads of tourists were swarming around an ostentatious and cheesy Trojan Horse, while a gift shop peddled its wares and men dressed in 'traditional' Greek armour pandered for expensive costumed photos. We took some obligatory photos with the horse and headed with what I can only describe as trepidation towards the ruin. However, once we cleared the tourists taking selfies, the true impact of the site came to light.

The site was first settled in 3000BC and abandoned in 500AD, and archaeologists have excavated nine different layers, meaning nine different cities were built on the site over the years. It was mind blowing to touch walls constructed up to 5000 years ago, and our well informed guide did a good job of explaining the architectural remains, as well as the history of the archaeological excavation. The most interesting remains, in my opinion, are the acropolis (Troy VII), the odeon (Troy IX), and a ramp leading to what would have been the main gate of Troy II. Also noteworthy is that archaeologists have found all of the pieces of a Temple of Athena, and reconstruction will begin this summer - an exciting addition to the site! It was really fun wandering along the path through the different layers of the cities, and learning about what archaeologists believe different stone walls to have been. We also learned a lot about a German treasure hunter named Heinrich Schliemann, who first discovered the site, and was successful in seriously damaging a lot of it in his manic search for treasure from Homeric Troy. He was an idiot, and it was infuriating to see where he had destroyed walls and dug erratic trenches through the site. He claims to have found treasure in the remains of Troy II (dating to 2600-2250BC) that he unhesitatingly called Priam's Treasure, though Homeric Troy is largely believed to be Troy VII (dating to 1300-1190BC). He smuggled he treasure out of Turkey, which his wife later wore to social events, despite the fact that they are supposed to be important archaeological discoveries. Much debate surrounding the authenticity of this treasure persists, and since he claims to have found the treasure inside a minor building wall outside of the main city walls, I can see why.

After our tour, we were driven back to Istanbul, concluding our weekend adventure. It was really nice to briefly leave the bustle of the city. Though I love it here, it can be draining to be so far from nature and so surrounded by people all the time.

Sorry this post is a bit short, but I've been having some computer problems and I am writing this entry from my phone. When I add photos later I will flesh it out a little! Now back to midterm studying, wish me luck!